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The Burger brake boost switch is a switch to cut off/interrupt the brake pedal signal to the ECU. Cutting this signal to the ECU only prevents the ECU from shutting down power when riding the brake and gas at the same time like when when doing burn outs, brake boosting to build boost during launches, etc. Brake boosting will replace your factory launch mode. Since the ABS, shifter, brake light, and all other modules continue to see the brake pedal signal all other systems on the vehicle operate normally.
We've been having a lot of fun testing the last few days and I guarantee Stinger track records will be broken with this! So far no ill effects have been observed but like any new DIY make this modification at your own risk and be on the lookout for any unknown bugs/side effects. It will prevent auto start/stop from engaging so should only be enabled during competition racing use purposes at sanctioned race tracks.
We've found the torque converter can be brake boosted up to around 3000rpm producing 10psi+ at the launch for those with the traction to take advantage of it! We've seen 60' times in the low 1.6s range compared to the 1.8s range we were all stuck at previously! The Burger switch works!
7/26/19: Although we've heard from 100s of cars brake boosting hard off the line there are also two reports of possible transfer case damage. The common thread between both seems to be holding boost too long without launching. I'd suggest AWD cars avoid brake boosting for more than a couple seconds until it's better known if the factory transfer case is a weak link in the drivetrain.
The install is fairly easy with basic electrical skills:
1) To access the wire lock doors and wait 5 min for ECU to go to sleep.
2) Disconnect the driver side ECU connector using the release handle and the unravel the various electrical tape holding the sleeving on. You'll be reusing the same electrical tape when you put it back together so try to damage it as little as possible.
3) Locate and cut the brake signal wire, green wire with a black stripe, on the driver side ECU connector. We've seen a few cars with multiple green wires with black stripe. Be sure to find the one that is running to spot #83 on the connector, it's the last wire in it's row so relatively easy to spot in there without taking the connector apart. It's on the bottom part of the wiring loom.
4) Route the cut wire through an electrical on/off switch. I soldered the wires together but you could also use wire nuts or just twist and tape.
5) Place back the electrical tape covering, put it all back together, and then place the switch wherever you'd like. If you use black wire the switch is pretty stealthy and looks just like an ignition cut off switch. I left it peaking out of the ECU area so I can easily access it at the track.
6) This is the most important step! Any new track records set using the burn out switch must be accompanied by a shout-out to Burger and the JB4 for making this all possible!
Customer track log testing the Burger switch with an AWD. Brake boosting to 3000 rpm on his way to a 1.65 60'!
We've been having a lot of fun testing the last few days and I guarantee Stinger track records will be broken with this! So far no ill effects have been observed but like any new DIY make this modification at your own risk and be on the lookout for any unknown bugs/side effects. It will prevent auto start/stop from engaging so should only be enabled during competition racing use purposes at sanctioned race tracks.
We've found the torque converter can be brake boosted up to around 3000rpm producing 10psi+ at the launch for those with the traction to take advantage of it! We've seen 60' times in the low 1.6s range compared to the 1.8s range we were all stuck at previously! The Burger switch works!
7/26/19: Although we've heard from 100s of cars brake boosting hard off the line there are also two reports of possible transfer case damage. The common thread between both seems to be holding boost too long without launching. I'd suggest AWD cars avoid brake boosting for more than a couple seconds until it's better known if the factory transfer case is a weak link in the drivetrain.
The install is fairly easy with basic electrical skills:
1) To access the wire lock doors and wait 5 min for ECU to go to sleep.
2) Disconnect the driver side ECU connector using the release handle and the unravel the various electrical tape holding the sleeving on. You'll be reusing the same electrical tape when you put it back together so try to damage it as little as possible.
3) Locate and cut the brake signal wire, green wire with a black stripe, on the driver side ECU connector. We've seen a few cars with multiple green wires with black stripe. Be sure to find the one that is running to spot #83 on the connector, it's the last wire in it's row so relatively easy to spot in there without taking the connector apart. It's on the bottom part of the wiring loom.
4) Route the cut wire through an electrical on/off switch. I soldered the wires together but you could also use wire nuts or just twist and tape.
5) Place back the electrical tape covering, put it all back together, and then place the switch wherever you'd like. If you use black wire the switch is pretty stealthy and looks just like an ignition cut off switch. I left it peaking out of the ECU area so I can easily access it at the track.
6) This is the most important step! Any new track records set using the burn out switch must be accompanied by a shout-out to Burger and the JB4 for making this all possible!
Customer track log testing the Burger switch with an AWD. Brake boosting to 3000 rpm on his way to a 1.65 60'!
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