JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Car: 2008 BMW 135i
Default Boost Leak? - 08-02-2022, 06:37 PM

Hey guys, I've been dealing with this issue for quite some time. Mostly due to frustration and walking away from the car. I now have bought a compressor and I've been looking for boost leaks but I can't seem to find it. I did a log and wanted to see what you guys thought. This was some time ago and again out of frustration I walked away. Well now I'm determined to get the car running at 100%. I've installed BC coilovers and the car handles amazing with the Michelin tires until I hit the gas and the lack of power breaks my spirit

A friend of mine was over today and said what I'm experiencing could maybe not be a boost leak and could be something electrical, including my throttle shutting over and over.

My current symptoms - starting at low RPMs full throttle the blow off valve cycles repeatedly going off and WGDC pegged at 99. Once the vehicle gets to higher RPMs the WGDC comes down to the 60's. Looking at the log the car follows ECU target for boost and not JB4 Target. Could that indicate the issue? I'd love to put this behind me.
Attached Files
File Type: csv P32_M6_R1_220403_2045.csv (13.8 KB, 9 views)




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP

Last edited by DBShiznit; 08-02-2022 at 06:42 PM..
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Car: N54 335i
Default 08-04-2022, 12:19 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
Hey guys, I've been dealing with this issue for quite some time. Mostly due to frustration and walking away from the car. I now have bought a compressor and I've been looking for boost leaks but I can't seem to find it. I did a log and wanted to see what you guys thought. This was some time ago and again out of frustration I walked away. Well now I'm determined to get the car running at 100%. I've installed BC coilovers and the car handles amazing with the Michelin tires until I hit the gas and the lack of power breaks my spirit

A friend of mine was over today and said what I'm experiencing could maybe not be a boost leak and could be something electrical, including my throttle shutting over and over.

My current symptoms - starting at low RPMs full throttle the blow off valve cycles repeatedly going off and WGDC pegged at 99. Once the vehicle gets to higher RPMs the WGDC comes down to the 60's. Looking at the log the car follows ECU target for boost and not JB4 Target. Could that indicate the issue? I'd love to put this behind me.
Hey DBShiznit, I took a look at your log you posted and I'll take a stab at helping you out.

After reviewing your log, I kind of have to agree with your friend at the moment that a boost leak may not be your problem. It appears it's the way you're set up (electronics/JB4 side).

So, to begin:
1.) Your JB4 firmware is a little outdated, you will need to update to the latest and greatest (Latest Version is G5_ISO_32_15_T1)

2.) Are you running an MHD flash map? If so which one?
*Important: Verify your TMAP setting is set to "OEM" in MHD
2b.) If using MHD, be sure to use the latest JB4 N54 Twin Turbo Hybrid backend flash.
2c.) If using MHD, this isn't a bad time to reset Lambda parameters. [Optional]

3.) Are you using Port Injection or Meth Injection? Because your JB4 is currently set up for it, but your sig doesn't mention either of these two.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-04-2022, 01:57 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Hey DBShiznit, I took a look at your log you posted and I'll take a stab at helping you out.

After reviewing your log, I kind of have to agree with your friend at the moment that a boost leak may not be your problem. It appears it's the way you're set up (electronics/JB4 side).

So, to begin:
1.) Your JB4 firmware is a little outdated, you will need to update to the latest and greatest (Latest Version is G5_ISO_32_15_T1)

2.) Are you running an MHD flash map? If so which one?
*Important: Verify your TMAP setting is set to "OEM" in MHD
2b.) If using MHD, be sure to use the latest JB4 N54 Twin Turbo Hybrid backend flash.
2c.) If using MHD, this isn't a bad time to reset Lambda parameters. [Optional]

3.) Are you using Port Injection or Meth Injection? Because your JB4 is currently set up for it, but your sig doesn't mention either of these two.
Thanks for the reply!

I thought I had the JB4 up to date. I'll have to make sure I update it. As far as MHD I have theTwin Turbo Hybrid BEF flash for pump gas. However I recently tried to re-flash to make sure everything is ok and the Twin Turbo Hybrid "pump" flash is gone? I only see the option for Twin Turbo Hybrid, is that also for pump gas?
No port injection or Meth. Just straight 93

I will work on putting the vehicle back together. Currently have the intercooler and front bumper off, and will do a more recent log. In the mean time I'd like to see if I can re-flash the Twin Hybrid Turbo pump flash. Am I missing something here as far as the correct flash? I swear last time I flashed it said Twin Turbo Hybrid Pump BEF. At this point I will also verify the TMAP setting.

I've also reset the lambda parameters through JB4. I'll make sure to do so through MHD as well.




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-04-2022, 05:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
Thanks for the reply!

I thought I had the JB4 up to date. I'll have to make sure I update it. As far as MHD I have theTwin Turbo Hybrid BEF flash for pump gas. However I recently tried to re-flash to make sure everything is ok and the Twin Turbo Hybrid "pump" flash is gone? I only see the option for Twin Turbo Hybrid, is that also for pump gas?
No port injection or Meth. Just straight 93

I will work on putting the vehicle back together. Currently have the intercooler and front bumper off, and will do a more recent log. In the mean time I'd like to see if I can re-flash the Twin Hybrid Turbo pump flash. Am I missing something here as far as the correct flash? I swear last time I flashed it said Twin Turbo Hybrid Pump BEF. At this point I will also verify the TMAP setting.

I've also reset the lambda parameters through JB4. I'll make sure to do so through MHD as well.
No problem!

Now, your JB4 log shows you're using firmware 32/14//2 which is a little outdated. Be sure to update the JB4 firmware as these guys work hard in getting bugs and other issues out with updates.
You may want to consider updating the MHD app, they have V.10 tunes out now {optional}.

I can't speak as to why you're not seeing your old flash tune from MHD, however, MHD did update to Rev. 10 tunes recently, it may have been re-named.
But I think you may be confusing the MHD Flash vs the JB4 Backend Flash.

With the MHD app, in your case, it would be as follows:
Flash a MHD App > Select V10.0 Maps > Select your Stage tune (1-2+) > Select your fuel (93oct) > Flash and Finalize

Then you would continue with the JB4 Backend Flash with MHD app:
Flash a backend map > Select a JB4 Tune File > Select the Folder either I8A0S or IJE0S (depending on which DME you have) > Select your BEF (JB4_*Your DME*_Pump_USA.bin > Flash and Finalize

^^Now I know what you're probably thinking, "I have Hybrid Turbos though" but the issue with that is the current JB4 BEF Tunes for Hybrid Turbos require E85, Flex Fuel or Race Gas. You're using 93 octane so unfortunately, you would need to flash a PUMP backend flash.

Since you're experiencing a lot of weird issues (as I graphed below), I'd suggest you start from scratch with your DME flashing. This will remove all tunes/flashes and basically starts the DME fresh. It takes more time, but trust me, it's worth it.

How I instruct my fellow users to do the custom flashing part is as follows:

1.) Set JB4 in dash menu to 0 (disables JB4)
2.) Open MHD > Select tune > Pick any tune > *do not flash tune anything at this point* > Press options button > take a screenshot/picture of all of your current MHD settings (Burble, RPM, Cold start noise reduction, etc.)
3.) Go back to the main MHD app home screen
4.) With MHD, flash your car back to stock:
Select stock > Flash back to stock > Long Write
(This process removes all previous tunes & MHD itself; basically starting the DME from scratch.)
5.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
6.) Turn on your car, open MHD. Flash your 93 Octane Tune:
Flash a MHD App > Select Version Map > Select your Stage tune (1-2+) > Select your fuel (93oct) > Select all other MHD options you had before (your screenshot/picture you took of your previous settings from step 2)
**Important to make sure you choose OEM TMap in MHD. The JB4 will be the only thing needed to do your charge pipe boost calculations**
7.) Flash your 93 Octane Tune (long write)
8.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
9.) Turn on your car and go back to MHD App to flash your JB4 BEF:
Flash a backend map > Select a JB4 Tune File > Select the Folder either I8A0S or IJE0S (depending on which DME you have) > Select your BEF (JB4_*Your DME*_Pump_USA.bin > Flash (short write)
10.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
11.) Turn on your car and re-enable JB4 in dash menu 2
12.) Confirm JB4 Steering Wheel Menu should be set to 4/2 (Back End Flash Mode)
13.) Set all of your JB4 settings below:

Boost Safety: 18.5 (you can change this later)
Fuel Bias: 0 (all of them)
Duty Bias: 0 (all of them)
Fuel OL: 65
DWP: 60
PID: 22
FF:45 (this will change up/down as you drive)
TMap: 1 (confirm this is selected)
MethScale: 0

Drive and log the car. Start logging 5 seconds before you floor the gas pedal and stop logging 5 seconds after.

Report back here with your log(s).

Hope this helps.
Attached Images
 


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Car: 2008 BMW 135i
Default 08-05-2022, 01:08 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
No problem!

Now, your JB4 log shows you're using firmware 32/14//2 which is a little outdated. Be sure to update the JB4 firmware as these guys work hard in getting bugs and other issues out with updates.
You may want to consider updating the MHD app, they have V.10 tunes out now {optional}.

I can't speak as to why you're not seeing your old flash tune from MHD, however, MHD did update to Rev. 10 tunes recently, it may have been re-named.
But I think you may be confusing the MHD Flash vs the JB4 Backend Flash.

With the MHD app, in your case, it would be as follows:
Flash a MHD App > Select V10.0 Maps > Select your Stage tune (1-2+) > Select your fuel (93oct) > Flash and Finalize

Then you would continue with the JB4 Backend Flash with MHD app:
Flash a backend map > Select a JB4 Tune File > Select the Folder either I8A0S or IJE0S (depending on which DME you have) > Select your BEF (JB4_*Your DME*_Pump_USA.bin > Flash and Finalize

^^Now I know what you're probably thinking, "I have Hybrid Turbos though" but the issue with that is the current JB4 BEF Tunes for Hybrid Turbos require E85, Flex Fuel or Race Gas. You're using 93 octane so unfortunately, you would need to flash a PUMP backend flash.

Since you're experiencing a lot of weird issues (as I graphed below), I'd suggest you start from scratch with your DME flashing. This will remove all tunes/flashes and basically starts the DME fresh. It takes more time, but trust me, it's worth it.

How I instruct my fellow users to do the custom flashing part is as follows:

1.) Set JB4 in dash menu to 0 (disables JB4)
2.) Open MHD > Select tune > Pick any tune > *do not flash tune anything at this point* > Press options button > take a screenshot/picture of all of your current MHD settings (Burble, RPM, Cold start noise reduction, etc.)
3.) Go back to the main MHD app home screen
4.) With MHD, flash your car back to stock:
Select stock > Flash back to stock > Long Write
(This process removes all previous tunes & MHD itself; basically starting the DME from scratch.)
5.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
6.) Turn on your car, open MHD. Flash your 93 Octane Tune:
Flash a MHD App > Select Version Map > Select your Stage tune (1-2+) > Select your fuel (93oct) > Select all other MHD options you had before (your screenshot/picture you took of your previous settings from step 2)
**Important to make sure you choose OEM TMap in MHD. The JB4 will be the only thing needed to do your charge pipe boost calculations**
7.) Flash your 93 Octane Tune (long write)
8.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
9.) Turn on your car and go back to MHD App to flash your JB4 BEF:
Flash a backend map > Select a JB4 Tune File > Select the Folder either I8A0S or IJE0S (depending on which DME you have) > Select your BEF (JB4_*Your DME*_Pump_USA.bin > Flash (short write)
10.) Turn off your car for 30 seconds after a successful flash (as instructed by MHD app)
11.) Turn on your car and re-enable JB4 in dash menu 2
12.) Confirm JB4 Steering Wheel Menu should be set to 4/2 (Back End Flash Mode)
13.) Set all of your JB4 settings below:

Boost Safety: 18.5 (you can change this later)
Fuel Bias: 0 (all of them)
Duty Bias: 0 (all of them)
Fuel OL: 65
DWP: 60
PID: 22
FF:45 (this will change up/down as you drive)
TMap: 1 (confirm this is selected)
MethScale: 0

Drive and log the car. Start logging 5 seconds before you floor the gas pedal and stop logging 5 seconds after.

Report back here with your log(s).

Hope this helps.

So interesting find yesterday. I own two n54 vehicles. One is my daily with bolt ons and stock turbos. After reading your reply I found myself wondering if the daily also has the latest firmware. I updated the firmware and under "User Adjustments" I found an option for hybrid turbos. So now it all makes sense. For the 135 I will flash pump gas BEF and then under user adjustments I will hit Hybrid Turbo. This is all after I go back to stock and re-flash to what I need it to be as you stated. This weekend I will put the car back together and get cracking at it.

Thanks again for your help! It'll be awesome to have the car back to normal again.




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-05-2022, 01:49 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
So interesting find yesterday. I own two n54 vehicles. One is my daily with bolt ons and stock turbos. After reading your reply I found myself wondering if the daily also has the latest firmware. I updated the firmware and under "User Adjustments" I found an option for hybrid turbos. So now it all makes sense. For the 135 I will flash pump gas BEF and then under user adjustments I will hit Hybrid Turbo. This is all after I go back to stock and re-flash to what I need it to be as you stated. This weekend I will put the car back together and get cracking at it.

Thanks again for your help! It'll be awesome to have the car back to normal again.
Hell yeah DBShiznit, at least you got that figured out.

For sure, everything above should give you good base line results. Hopefully, the throttle closures will go away and boost will finally start going up at low RPM's.

Be sure to come back and post your logs so we can see where you are at.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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xargentum xargentum is offline
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Car: E93 335i
Default 08-06-2022, 02:18 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
6.) Turn on your car, open MHD. Flash your 93 Octane Tune:
Flash a MHD App > Select Version Map > Select your Stage tune (1-2+) > Select your fuel (93oct) > Select all other MHD options you had before (your screenshot/picture you took of your previous settings from step 2)
**Important to make sure you choose OEM TMap in MHD. The JB4 will be the only thing needed to do your charge pipe boost calculations**
7.) Flash your 93 Octane Tune (long write)
9.) Turn on your car and go back to MHD App to flash your JB4 BEF:
Flash a backend map > Select a JB4 Tune File > Select the Folder either I8A0S or IJE0S (depending on which DME you have) > Select your BEF (JB4_*Your DME*_Pump_USA.bin > Flash (short write)
Hi, whats the point of installing MHD OTS tune with Jb4? If you are going to install BEF anyway?
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 11:03 AM

Here it is. Looks like I'm still matching ECU PSI and not Target?
Attached Files
File Type: csv P32_M6_R1_220806_1300.csv (48.1 KB, 3 views)




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Car: N54 335i
Default 08-06-2022, 01:21 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
Here it is. Looks like I'm still matching ECU PSI and not Target?
Hey DBShiznit, thanks for posting.
So I took a loot at the log you posted, I know you're not where you want to be but it does look better than your first log believe it or not.

So just a couple of things here, when graphing your log (pic below), your boost curve (blue line) is following boost target (pink line) but what's odd is your boost target is really linear going up to a set point of 25psi. Obviously you don't make it there, we don't want to go there right now, but this is what's causing your boost to almost be non-existent in low RPM's.

Please confirm which JB4 BEF you flashed with MHD.

Now to go after your Jb4 settings:
You were logging in Map 6, please change your map to Map 2

Please make the below user changes in the Jb4 app:
MethScale: 0 (current setting is 60)
PID: 10

In dash settings:
Menu 0 Setting: 2 - Map 2
Menu 4 Setting: 2 - Back End Flash Mode (confirm this is done)

Check your settings below. You may want to adjust these to the numbers below: {optional}
Menu 11 Setting: Between 3600-3900rpm - Gas Pedal Sensitivity (A setting of 0 runs zero boost up to 45% gas pedal input while a setting of 5000rpm runs zero boost up to 5% gas pedal input. The higher the number the more aggressive)
Menu 12 Setting: 2200rpm - Minimum waste gate duty cycle (PWM will not drop below this value regardless of where boost is in relation to target)

Please confirm your MHD settings:
TMap is selected to OEM

Which map did you flash?
Stage?
Fuel?

Other things to consider:
Your STFT's on both banks are running a little lean especially Bank 1 so keep an eye out on those. (I graphed them below, Green & Purple lines)

You may have a boost leak after all. With the log you posted, your target boost pressure was 25PSI Map 6, even when you made boost, the most you made was 16.5PSI and it flatlined (blue line). Your FF/WGDC was going up as well (light pink line) possibly indicating a boost leak. But let's see what we can get with the above changes for now.

When logging, hold the car steady at 2,000RPM, you're starting your logs at 900RPM.
- Hold the car steady at 2,000RPM, start logging on JB4 app, hold for 5 seconds, floor the gas pedal to almost redline, release the gas pedal, stop logging after 5 seconds.

Make those changes, confirm those settings and log again.
Attached Images
 


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter

Last edited by SAINt Jon; 08-06-2022 at 01:45 PM.. Reason: Logging Advice
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Car: N54 335i
Default 08-06-2022, 01:41 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by xargentum
Hi, whats the point of installing MHD OTS tune with Jb4? If you are going to install BEF anyway?
Hi xargentum,

The BEF's are for the folks who want to keep the benefits of their JB4 functionality and features. The BEF are templates you can write to your DME using MHD that is specifically designed to compliment JB4 tuning. MHD flashing allows you to optimize the ECU end and the back end flash allows the user to retain the JB4 options/controls.

Basically getting the best of both worlds in regards to just a DME flash (MHD) and the Jb4 functionality. This is really beneficial if you want power add on's like Port Injection & Meth Injection and to be able to control those add on's and "tune" them. MHD does not offer these options as just a DME Flash.
(However, MHD+ with Reflex is a different story )

Using MHD tunes with JB4 compliment each other. When using the Jb4 side of things, you have the ability to control meth/PI but of course use NLS, JB4 safeties/monitoring, on the fly map changes, etc..

For more info about the JB4 BEF's check out this thread:

N54 MHD Back End Flash Maps - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Car: 2008 BMW 135i
Default 08-06-2022, 01:47 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Hey DBShiznit, thanks for posting.
So I took a loot at the log you posted, I know you're not where you want to be but it does look better than your first log believe it or not.

So just a couple of things here, when graphing your log (pic below), your boost curve (blue line) is following boost target (pink line) but what's odd is your boost target is really linear going up to a set point of 25psi. Obviously you don't make it there, we don't want to go there right now, but this is what's causing your boost to almost be non-existent in low RPM's.

Please confirm which JB4 BEF you flashed with MHD.

Now to go after your Jb4 settings:
You were logging in Map 6, please change your map to Map 2

Please make the below user changes in the Jb4 app:
MethScale: 0 (current setting is 60)
PID: 10

In dash settings:
Menu 0 Setting: 2 - Map 2
Menu 4 Setting: 2 - Back End Flash Mode (confirm this is done)

Check your settings below. You may want to adjust these to the numbers below: {optional}
Menu 11 Setting: Between 3600-3900rpm - Gas Pedal Sensitivity (A setting of 0 runs zero boost up to 45% gas pedal input while a setting of 5000rpm runs zero boost up to 5% gas pedal input. The higher the number the more aggressive)
Menu 12 Setting: 2200rpm - Minimum waste gate duty cycle (PWM will not drop below this value regardless of where boost is in relation to target)

Please confirm your MHD settings:
TMap is selected to OEM

Which map did you flash?
Stage?
Fuel?

Other things to consider:
Your STFT's on both banks are running a little lean especially Bank 1 so keep an eye out on those. (I graphed them below, Green & Purple lines)

You may have a boost leak after all. With the log you posted, your target boost pressure was 25PSI Map 6, even when you made boost, the most you made was 16.5PSI and it flatlined (blue line). Your FF/WGDC was going up as well (light pink line) possibly indicating a boost leak. But let's see what we can get with the above changes for now.

Make those changes, confrim those settings and log again.
I changed the settings as you requested. I only just noticed the Meth Scaling so that has been turned to 0. Also I flashed the IJE0S Pump BEF. TMAP is OEM under MHD

JB4's Menu 0 is now at 2 and Menu 4 was at 2 for the BEF. I adjusted menu 11 and 12 accordingly. I'll go out now for another LOG

Oh and 93 octane




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP

Last edited by DBShiznit; 08-06-2022 at 01:52 PM..
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 01:51 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
I changed the settings as you requested. I only just noticed the Meth Scaling so that has been turned to 0. Also I flashed the IJE0S Pump BEF. TMAP is OEM under MHD

JB4's Menu 0 is now at 2 and Menu 4 was at 2 for the BEF. I adjusted menu 11 and 12 accordingly. I'll go out now for another LOG
Ok sounds good! Keep us posted. Be safe out there.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 02:27 PM

Updated log
Attached Files
File Type: csv P32_M2_R1_220806_1721.csv (39.1 KB, 3 views)




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 03:22 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
Updated log
Thanks for the quick reply DBShiznit.
How the car feel? Probably like a slouch? Right? No worries, we finally got your cars baseline numbers.

So with the graph below of your last run, you'll see many differences but what we see now is that your WGDC is now reactive. Before, it was pegged at 100% during all of your previous runs/logs (Dark Pink line); which is not what we want it to do.
You can also see that your boost is falling (Blue Line - we will fix that) but also your FF has dropped compared to your last log(s); that's a good thing.
Oh, and look at those STFT's (Green & Purple lines)!! They look better now! Both banks!

So we now have some baseline numbers, let's see if we can get some performance out of this thing:

Please make the below JB4 changes:
Duty Bias: 40 (all of them)
DWP: 65
PID: 20
FF:55 (this will change up/down as you drive)

When logging, cruise and hold the car steady at ~2,500RPM in 3rd gear; you're starting your logs at 900RPM.

- Hold the car steady at ~2,500RPM > start logging on JB4 app > hold for 5 seconds > floor the gas pedal to almost redline > release the gas pedal > stop logging after 5 seconds.

Also, try to get multiple logs, 2-3 logs so we can see if there are any drastic changes.

Make those changes above, log and report back.
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N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 03:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Thanks for the quick reply DBShiznit.
How the car feel? Probably like a slouch? Right? No worries, we finally got your cars baseline numbers.

So with the graph below of your last run, you'll see many differences but what we see now is that your WGDC is now reactive. Before, it was pegged at 100% during all of your previous runs/logs (Dark Pink line); which is not what we want it to do.
You can also see that your boost is falling (Blue Line - we will fix that) but also your FF has dropped compared to your last log(s); that's a good thing.
Oh, and look at those STFT's (Green & Purple lines)!! They look better now! Both banks!

So we now have some baseline numbers, let's see if we can get some performance out of this thing:

Please make the below JB4 changes:
Duty Bias: 40 (all of them)
DWP: 65
PID: 20
FF:55 (this will change up/down as you drive)

When logging, cruise and hold the car steady at ~2,500RPM in 3rd gear; you're starting your logs at 900RPM.

- Hold the car steady at ~2,500RPM > start logging on JB4 app > hold for 5 seconds > floor the gas pedal to almost redline > release the gas pedal > stop logging after 5 seconds.

Also, try to get multiple logs, 2-3 logs so we can see if there are any drastic changes.

Make those changes above, log and report back.
I'll do so and get you a log. Also, the blow off valve is still cycling as you can tell by the shaky build in boost.




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 03:52 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
I'll do so and get you a log. Also, the blow off valve is still cycling as you can tell by the shaky build in boost.
Yes sir, I can see that you do have a choppy build up of boost at low RPM as well.

I know you stated earlier that you have been looking for boost leaks in the past, were you checking for Leaks in your system with an air compressor?
This is the only real way to successfully check for boost leaks on an N54 and this cannot be skipped.

Here is a video on how to do it properly:

HOW TO FIND A BOOST LEAK FOR $5! (BMW N54/N55) - YouTube

How old is your Tial BOV and is it a real one? I know some Chinese copies have springs and diaphragms that can't handle boost after a long time......


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 04:02 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Yes sir, I can see that you do have a choppy build up of boost at low RPM as well.

I know you stated earlier that you have been looking for boost leaks in the past, were you checking for Leaks in your system with an air compressor?
This is the only real way to successfully check for boost leaks on an N54 and this cannot be skipped.

Here is a video on how to do it properly:

HOW TO FIND A BOOST LEAK FOR $5! (BMW N54/N55) - YouTube

How old is your Tial BOV and is it a real one? I know some Chinese copies have springs and diaphragms that can't handle boost after a long time......
I cant say how old it is however it is a real one. I've also inspected the diaphragm making sure that was not the issue and everything looked good. Worst case I have a second Tial on my daily that I can swap. The spring inside is not colored so from what I remember it is the regular spring and hasn't been changed.

As far as the boost leak, yes I've been chasing it with compressed air, I set the pressure at 30lbs on a 6 gallon tank.




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 04:46 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
I cant say how old it is however it is a real one. I've also inspected the diaphragm making sure that was not the issue and everything looked good. Worst case I have a second Tial on my daily that I can swap. The spring inside is not colored so from what I remember it is the regular spring and hasn't been changed.

As far as the boost leak, yes I've been chasing it with compressed air, I set the pressure at 30lbs on a 6 gallon tank.
Ok gotcha. Yeah, the unpainted spring should be the 11psi spring which is necessary for our N54's.

If you can, that honestly would be a great test to do! A BOV ain't supposed to make any noise at low RPM's; it's supposed to seal when you make boost and stay nice & quiet. It's only to make that beautiful BOV noise when going into the next gear or let off the gas pedal. If you feel up to it, swap them out and log. Can't hurt at all.

Thanks for confirming that you are indeed using an air compressor. You wouldn't believe how many people we try to help that skip this step and wonder why they have sooooo many issues.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 05:23 PM

So for the issues Iím having if I was to have a boost leak how bad would it have to be? Like a pin needle?




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 05:56 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
So for the issues Iím having if I was to have a boost leak how bad would it have to be? Like a pin needle?
Well it's hard to say at this moment where you have a boost leak. If any.
At upper RPM's you've made a max of 18.7psi thus far so we know your turbos can spool for sure.

At lower RPM's however, you're not really holding boost pressure. It kinda points towards your BOV as it may not be closing all the way causing a leak, but then as you increase in RPM, the turbo's finally power through and create boost.
It could also be your boost solenoids.

So we know you can definitely build boost up high in RPM's but down low, we got almost nothing. Of course, stock twins can build boost easily down low usually by 2,800RPM's. Your upgraded twins can most definitely do the same if not better.

This is why swapping your BOV's might be a great idea! I'm assuming you're not having issues with your other car like this.
- If swapping the BOV's and your boost finally hits at low RPM's then you know you found your problem. If it's still the same and doesn't improve, then see below...
- It may be your boost solenoids. Do you know how old they are?
You could try swapping them to see if your boost improves.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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DBShiznit DBShiznit is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 06:19 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Well it's hard to say at this moment where you have a boost leak. If any.
At upper RPM's you've made a max of 18.7psi thus far so we know your turbos can spool for sure.

At lower RPM's however, you're not really holding boost pressure. It kinda points towards your BOV as it may not be closing all the way causing a leak, but then as you increase in RPM, the turbo's finally power through and create boost.
It could also be your boost solenoids.

So we know you can definitely build boost up high in RPM's but down low, we got almost nothing. Of course, stock twins can build boost easily down low usually by 2,800RPM's. Your upgraded twins can most definitely do the same if not better.

This is why swapping your BOV's might be a great idea! I'm assuming you're not having issues with your other car like this.
- If swapping the BOV's and your boost finally hits at low RPM's then you know you found your problem. If it's still the same and doesn't improve, then see below...
- It may be your boost solenoids. Do you know how old they are?
You could try swapping them to see if your boost improves.
The Solenoids are new I replaced them when I replaced the turbos. Turbos have less than 2500 miles on them. I also replaced all of the rubber hoses associated with the boost solenoids and turbos.

I just tried finding a boost leak again. I tested at 60lbs this time around and hoped for the best. I totally overlooked the TMAP sensor and sprayed some soapy water around it and sure enough saw some bubbles coming out. Now this wasn't a huge leak, more like a small slow leak out of a nail in a tire. I addressed that but won't be able to take the car out tonight to check however I wanted to ask if something like that would be enough to cause issues?

I literally cannot see or hear any other leaks, not with soap or with using my hand to feel air in the couplings.

Thanks again for spending your time on this trying to help me get it sorted out!




2009 135i - 6MT - JB4 - BEF - ANTI-LAG - PURE600's - 2" VRSF Inlets - 3.5 TMAP - BMS DCI - Tial BOV - 7" ETS FMIC - CDP - VRSF CDP CEL DELETE - M PERFORMANCE MUFFLER - BC COILOVERS - M3 FRONT CONTROL ARMS - ECS FRONT FLOATING CROSS DRILLED ROTORS REAR CROSS DRILLED ROTORS/HAWK PADS ALL AROUND - SS BRAKE LINES - BMS CLUTCH VALVE DELETE - BMS CLUTCH STOP
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-06-2022, 08:10 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
The Solenoids are new I replaced them when I replaced the turbos. Turbos have less than 2500 miles on them. I also replaced all of the rubber hoses associated with the boost solenoids and turbos.

I just tried finding a boost leak again. I tested at 60lbs this time around and hoped for the best. I totally overlooked the TMAP sensor and sprayed some soapy water around it and sure enough saw some bubbles coming out. Now this wasn't a huge leak, more like a small slow leak out of a nail in a tire. I addressed that but won't be able to take the car out tonight to check however I wanted to ask if something like that would be enough to cause issues?

I literally cannot see or hear any other leaks, not with soap or with using my hand to feel air in the couplings.

Thanks again for spending your time on this trying to help me get it sorted out!
holy 60psi Batman!! No need to pressurize the system passed what your boost goals are. So turning down your air compressor to 25-30psi is more than enough. Don't wanna blow seals and cause leaks.

Ok, so we now have more info. We can safely assume that the new boost solenoids should be good and we should be safe to assume that the new turbos you installed are setup correctly from the factory (Waste Gate & Waste Gate Arm).
With a small leak like that which you found at the TMap sensor, I wouldn't worry about that, your turbos have plenty of spool to work past such a small leak.

So another thing you might want to take the time and effort to diagnose/test is the vacuum side of the boost solenoids. I know you replaced the vacuum lines but the plastic reservoirs tend to leak, lines become disconnected/kinked, etc.
It may be worth your time to use a vacuum hand pump to verify that the lines do hold vacuum. Remove one of the two vacuum lines (pic below) from the vacuum pump hose and test that line. Repeat for the other line.
The vacuum lines/system should be able to hold a vacuum of ~24in Hg.

If you don't have a handheld vacuum pump, you can do two things:
With the JB4 and engine at idle:

N54 WG Vacuum Line Testing HOW-TO - YouTube

OR

With your air compressor, air blow gun and soapy water; remove one of the two vacuum lines (pic below) from the vacuum pump and pressurize the lines (5psi max) and check for leaks across all the lines, vacuum reservoir and to the boost solenoid. Repeat for the other line.

I hope this helps. I know it's a pain in the ass but the reality is you're setting yourself up for success. Don't give up.
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N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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xargentum xargentum is offline
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Default 08-07-2022, 07:49 AM

Quote:
Originally Posted by SAINt Jon
Hi xargentum,

The BEF's are for the folks who want to keep the benefits of their JB4 functionality and features. The BEF are templates you can write to your DME using MHD that is specifically designed to compliment JB4 tuning. MHD flashing allows you to optimize the ECU end and the back end flash allows the user to retain the JB4 options/controls.

Basically getting the best of both worlds in regards to just a DME flash (MHD) and the Jb4 functionality. This is really beneficial if you want power add on's like Port Injection & Meth Injection and to be able to control those add on's and "tune" them. MHD does not offer these options as just a DME Flash.
(However, MHD+ with Reflex is a different story )

Using MHD tunes with JB4 compliment each other. When using the Jb4 side of things, you have the ability to control meth/PI but of course use NLS, JB4 safeties/monitoring, on the fly map changes, etc..

For more info about the JB4 BEF's check out this thread:

N54 MHD Back End Flash Maps - JB4tech.com - International Turbo Tuning Discussion
hmm, I always thought that BEF overwrite's current .bin ingition,fuel tables and etc. For example, if I have MHD stage 2 ( with all ignition tables and etc ) and if I write for example E85 BEF, it will overwrite all the MHD stage 2 ignition, fuel and etc tables, or Im understanding wrong..?
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-07-2022, 01:12 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by xargentum
hmm, I always thought that BEF overwrite's current .bin ingition,fuel tables and etc. For example, if I have MHD stage 2 ( with all ignition tables and etc ) and if I write for example E85 BEF, it will overwrite all the MHD stage 2 ignition, fuel and etc tables, or Im understanding wrong..?
So the best way to explain how all of this works is like this more or less; when you have just a JB4 installed, it controls everything inline with its tunes for your setup. Timing, fuel scalars, boost control, safeties, user features, etc.

When you flash the DME, like with MHD, their tune or bin file gets flashed to the DME and stays there. All MHD timing, fuel scalars, safety options, user features, etc..
Now with MHD alone, you also need some kind of boost controller, MHD alone cannot control boost without a controller, you will need some kind of boost controller. This is where a Jb4 comes into play, or some other brand of boost controller. But of course the Jb4 comes with more than just boost controlling capabilities.
Furthermore, when you flash an MHD map, you have to select which stage of tune you require so stages 1, 2, 2+. Your "stage tune" is relative to what mods your have installed on your car. MHD also needs to know what kind of fuel you are using; E85, ethanol mix, 91-93 octane, etc. Then of course you can flash some other user features like burbles, cold start functions, idle RPM, etc..
That's pretty much it. MHD flash maps don't care if you have twin turbos, hybrid twin turbos, single turbos, bottom mount single turbos, journal bearing single turbos, dual ceramic ball bearing turbos, twin scroll, etc..
It's pretty basic at this point. So this is where the JB4 BEF come into play.

The guys @ BMS were kind enough to give us back end flashes to tailor to exactly what's installed on your car. So if you have a special setup i.e. twin scroll single turbo on full E85, you can now flash that JB4 BEF via MHD so the end user will have a much better tune and control for their setup. With MHD alone, this isn't done. Remember, it fairly basic in flash form. Add a BEF with a tailored tune for your setup with MHD........and now you have a winning combination.

BUT you can take this even further by getting a custom tune for your setup. MHD allows flashing of custom tunes. The custom tunes bin file or flash tune from your tuner remains in the DME and since JB4 is already installed in this example, now the boost maps are controlled via JB4 all while the "custom tune" is in the DME. Now of course with more boost comes differing fuel scalars, timing, etc. but the JB4 handles that.
With custom tunes there are no back end flashes. At this point it's all in your tuner's hands.

Below is how JB4 & MHD work together:

https://burgertuning.com/pages/faq#W...0flash%20tune?

Hopefully this clears things up a little.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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SAINt Jon SAINt Jon is offline
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Default 08-07-2022, 01:32 PM

Quote:
Originally Posted by DBShiznit
Thanks again for spending your time on this trying to help me get it sorted out!
Hey man, I was thinking last night about your issue(s) and I also wanted to see if there are any underlying codes stored in the DME. Have you checked your trouble codes lately in MHD?
I'm curious to know if you have any codes stored including shadow codes.
If so, post them here.

Also, when was the last time you've done some house cleaning in your DME?
Meaning reseting Adaptations via MHD?

Not sure if you took the time to clear most if not all these adaptations after your install. It would've made sense to do so as now you have a totally different setup.

At minimum, I'd recommend the following the be reset:
Lambda sensors
Instake mass flow
Throttle**
Lambda regulation
Load control
Fuel high pressure system
Octane rating
Vanos

**If reseting Throttle adaptations:
Reset all of the above going down the list.
When complete, exit MHD and turn off the car for 30 seconds.
Turn on the car but do not start! Wait an additional 30 seconds for the Throttle Reset.
Turn off car again. Wait 30 seconds.
Turn on the car and start as normal.

Hope this clears up some of the issues you're experiencing.


N54 | 6MT | Doc Race 6266 Top Mount Kit v2 | Phoenix Racing Intake Manifold w/ 750cc Injectors | Stage 4 Dual Walbro Hellcat 535 LPFP's | BPM4 Dual Fuel Pump Controller | 100% Custom Fuel Lines w/ Adjustable FPR & Return Line | 7.5" VRSF Race Intercooler | BMS Dual Catch Cans | HKS BOV | Stage II Performance Clutch | Trebila Custom Flex Fuel Tune | M3 Control Arms & Control Arm Bushings | ECS Trailing Arms | Turner Motor Sport Short Shifter
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