[ratapeludismo]

Hi guys!
I have a big problem;
I changed 4 times the brake discs in 2 years !!
The symptom are vibrations in the steering wheel when braking.
The problem is that warp.
Today I discovered that the brake air ducts are not suitable for the bumper M (I have the refencias 51748045361 and 51748045362)
335i M Tech must have (51748045364 and 51748045363)
Could this be the cause of the deformation of the discs by poor ventilation of the disks?
Thank you for your help.

[Jayock]

How is the pad wear?

Unless you are heavily racing in road course events, or always on your brakes you shouldn't warp, even without direct ventilation.

Check your calipers. Probably stuck and letting the pad constantly ride on the rotor generating way too much heat.

[ratapeludismo]

Use pads ATE.
They have received the clamps and say they are going well. No friction.
I'm desperate!!
thanks for your help

[Jayock]

How do you drive the car? Is this street, or race-track driven?

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by Jayock

How do you drive the car? Is this street, or race-track driven?

Only street.
They have reviewed the calipers and other parts.
Everything seems to be right.
New discs only work well for about 3 weeks. After starting the vibrations in the steering wheel.
Thanks for the help.

[Jayock]

Post bigger pictures please (sarcasm)

On a street car, you shouldn't need vents to avoid warping rotors within 3 weeks. It is something else. Not sure what, but it isn't the vents.

[ratapeludismo]

Excuse me.
You would be the next thing you would change?
Thank you!

[Jayock]

I don't really endorse everything in this article, but it is a good starting point for your symptoms:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

So your pads aren't wearing way fast, right? Are they wearing evenly? Each pad is the same thickness from front to back, and the inboard pad is about as thick as the outboard pad?

[harkes]

Originally Posted by Jayock

I don't really endorse everything in this article, but it is a good starting point for your symptoms:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

So your pads aren't wearing way fast, right? Are they wearing evenly? Each pad is the same thickness from front to back, and the inboard pad is about as thick as the outboard pad?

+1

I fixed my shudder giving my discs a good scruff

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by Jayock

I don't really endorse everything in this article, but it is a good starting point for your symptoms:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

So your pads aren't wearing way fast, right? Are they wearing evenly? Each pad is the same thickness from front to back, and the inboard pad is about as thick as the outboard pad?

Once I cleaned sandblasted and did not work.
After I send photos of the pills.
Thank you!

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by harkes

+1

I fixed my shudder giving my discs a good scruff

scruff = sandpaper ??

Sorry I do not speak the language well

Thanks!

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by Jayock

I don't really endorse everything in this article, but it is a good starting point for your symptoms:

http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths

So your pads aren't wearing way fast, right? Are they wearing evenly? Each pad is the same thickness from front to back, and the inboard pad is about as thick as the outboard pad?

[ratapeludismo]

Not having enough ventilation air is heated disk and deposits are adhered pads causing vibrations?
Thank you

[Nanometer]

It's probably your break in procedure. When you get fresh pads and rotors on the car you will need to give them about 200 of very easy driving. This never gets them up to temperature, for good reason. You need to have good even contact before you start the bedding process. After those 200 miles I would proceed with the typical break in procedure. I made the same mistake as you it sounds like, and this break in process has always worked well for me.

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by Nanometer

It's probably your break in procedure. When you get fresh pads and rotors on the car you will need to give them about 200 of very easy driving. This never gets them up to temperature, for good reason. You need to have good even contact before you start the bedding process. After those 200 miles I would proceed with the typical break in procedure. I made the same mistake as you it sounds like, and this break in process has always worked well for me.

I'm sorry, I misunderstood you.
You advised me to do?
I can retrieve my discs or I have to buy new?
Thanks for your help.

[Jayock]

Like I already said: It isn't the cooling, unless you are running your brakes REALLY hard.

Cooling is a nice to have but not necessary. If you insist on ruling out brake cooling, grab a hack saw or a saw-z-all and cut the crap in the way of your vent. But it isn't gonna help.

Look up proper break in and bedding of brakes.

Also, please resize your pics before posting. Its impossible to see anything when I have to scroll 4x the screen width to get across the image.

[Nanometer]

For track days once a year, and not going for time attack, I would get factory blank rotors. For time attack I would look at M performance brakes, another big brake kit, or a reputable company that makes good track rotors and another company for track pads such as Hawk HP plus. I never recommend to resurface rotors, better off buying new and starting over.

[Vertigo]

Its your front control arms. Replace them. 2 on each side. 4 total.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2586480/

[ratapeludismo]

While not redirect the air

[RJ_419]

Originally Posted by Vertigo

Its your front control arms. Replace them. 2 on each side. 4 total.
https://www.ecstuning.com/ES2586480/

This is good advice. A worn bushing can give similar results.

Only other thing i can think of is if you have a bad ABS module that is holding pressure in the brakes when it shouldn't.

[oldman12]

Im late but yes, its your front control arm bushings. They are shot. If possible, use polyurethane bushings. Much stiffer than stock.

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by oldman12

Im late but yes, its your front control arm bushings. They are shot. If possible, use polyurethane bushings. Much stiffer than stock.

Hello Friend!
Unfortunately it is not late.
I still have the problem.
I have changed this piece twice; Tension strut with hydraulic mount 31126769798/7
I'm desperate.
The ABS module can be ???
Thanks for the help.

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by RJ_419

This is good advice. A worn bushing can give similar results.

Only other thing i can think of is if you have a bad ABS module that is holding pressure in the brakes when it shouldn't.

Hello Friend!
Do you think that removing the ABS fuse would void the module?
Do you know what a fuse is?
Thank you.

[oldman12]

I'm not certain what it is exactly you replaced but for me, I have been through 3 BMW's that all had the same problem and when I replaced the largest bushing in the control arms, voila! Problem solved. My current car, an 08 535i needed polyurethane bushings to fix the problem as even brand new factory ones didn't resolve the problem.

Originally Posted by ratapeludismo

Hello Friend!
Unfortunately it is not late.
I still have the problem.
I have changed this piece twice; Tension strut with hydraulic mount 31126769798/7
I'm desperate.
The ABS module can be ???
Thanks for the help.

[ratapeludismo]

Originally Posted by oldman12

I'm not certain what it is exactly you replaced but for me, I have been through 3 BMW's that all had the same problem and when I replaced the largest bushing in the control arms, voila! Problem solved. My current car, an 08 535i needed polyurethane bushings to fix the problem as even brand new factory ones didn't resolve the problem.

Hello!
You had the same problem?
I have replaced piece # 9
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=31_0814

I read that the last tightening must be done with the car on the ground,
It is true?
Thank you!