[sfonteno]

Getting in the water/meth system this week, last night I realized that I may want to hold off on putting it in until I get the new intercooler put in first.

It seems like I should get the new intercooler in with the system before or I am just going to have to readjust it again anyway?

Thanks!

[Terry @ BMS]

The factory intercooler is more than sufficient for most... Post up some JB4 logs of longer runs and lets see how intake temps and timing advance are moving during longer runs.

[sfonteno]

Awesome, thanks sir.

[sfonteno]

Ok Terry, I got everything installed, fixed the leaks lol, bled the pump, etc. Looking at the maps available I am guessing I will need to make a user map since there is no water/meth map. (No map 7.)
I was able to put in the suggested vales and save the wmi settings to the active JB4.

Let me know what the next steps are, I was smiling ear to ear the entire time I worked on this, I am having a blast lol 😂. (I had big plans for a focus before kids changed my plans years ago, this is my new larger fun car ;-)

Thanks again for the help, the parts and instructions for the install were great!

[Payam @ BMS]

Originally Posted by sfonteno

Ok Terry, I got everything installed, fixed the leaks lol, bled the pump, etc. Looking at the maps available I am guessing I will need to make a user map since there is no water/meth map. (No map 7.)
I was able to put in the suggested vales and save the wmi settings to the active JB4.

Let me know what the next steps are, I was smiling ear to ear the entire time I worked on this, I am having a blast lol 😂. (I had big plans for a focus before kids changed my plans years ago, this is my new larger fun car ;-)

Thanks again for the help, the parts and instructions for the install were great!

Fastest way to be to email him directly as he might need to send you custom firmware for your kit so you can have that map enabled. Terry@burgertuning.com

[sfonteno]

Ok thanks Payam!

[sfonteno]

Ok an update, Terry was able to use the logs I sent him and create an alpha firmware here.
Set meth trigger = 1 on the user adjustment page, set meth scaling = 60 on the WMI page as well as min boost 8psi, everything else per the WMI instructions.
Test run went well, I will post some images of the install at some point. Going to try map4 next when it's not raining out.

[sfonteno]

This is for a 2022 Wildtrak bronco with upgraded bov.

Start by removing the two bolts that hold the wiper fluid spout on the frame. Drill a 3/8 inch hole about 1 to 1.5 inches from the spout gasket on the top side. Insert a 1/4" rubber grommet. Cut off about three feet of 1/4" hose and compression fit a brass fitting to the end. This is a weight that will be slid into the washer fluid tank. Feed the weight/hose into the tank and feed the other end thru the grommet, reattach the spout.


The compressor fits under the right fender and on the right engine bay frame. There is a metal ground post that I moved down on bolt and then bent over to insert, then bent back slightly for support. I wrapped the pump in a 3 inch radiator hose and strapped it down with two straps to the silver frame.
Make sure you attach the washer fluid hose before strapping the pump in final tightness. This took me the longest, test fit everything until it's just right, you should be able to still remove the filter box screw if done right. The pump input is on the outside.


The output hose and the solenoid valve I ran behind the air intake box and mounted to the radiator fan. I put some tape on the hose where it could possibly rub on the frame.


At this point before I attached the hose to the valve I purged the pump with a 12vdc power supply. Emergency battery charger works fine, just has to be 12vdc or less. Run the fluid back into the washer fluid tank then hook it up when the pump no longer spits air.


At this point you can wire things up. I used aux switch three and routed the power under the windshield wiper plastic pan, there are existing harnesses, just loop it into those tie down points. I ran the valve wiring under the air intake plastic panel as it has a foam padded underside and it runs all the way over to the battery box. (Which is where I mounted the JB4)


I bought this adapter hose for the nozzle:
Mishimoto Silicone Coupler, 3.0" w/ 1/8" NPT Bung, Black
Loosen the intake rubber hose clamps, make sure to detach the clips on the underside that are dug into the rubber so you can remove them and straighten them out for reuse in the mishi adapter. The hose is right on the top and is like 4 inches long and 3 inches diameter. You will have to loosen the bolt that holds the two intake pipes to each other, you can't miss it, it's there to keep stress off the rubber hose.

Carefully cut enough of both ends off the mishi adapter so it is the same length as the stock hose, tilt it to the left. Take extra care to get the back side of the straps aligned as you tighten. Take your time, do the engine (metal) side first. You screw this up you will have a leak in your intake. Attach the plastic side next, same care for the underside. The mishi hose is super soft so it grabs really hard as you tighten it.

Teflon tape all the nozzle/valve fittings threads, 2 layers is enough. Measure and test fit the hose so it reaches the nozzle adapter. Slowly tighten the nozzle into the adapter hose, it has a rubber oring so just tighten until it stops, no need to crank on it. Attach the hose, double check the fittings for leaks. Make sure you have basic blue -20f washer fluid, nothing fancy unless it's boost juice which imo is overkill for this car.

At this time the JB4 software is in alpha. (April 2022)
Alpha firmware here.
Set meth trigger = 1 on the user adjustment page, set meth scaling = 60 on the WMI page as well as min boost 8psi, everything else per the WMI instructions.
Don't forget to turn it on lol, easy to forget. The pump should make some noise briefly then shut off. When you log the system it should kick in at 3k rpm and go to 100%.

With this setup I am running 91 octane, no ethanol, 50/50 washer fluid, on map 4. No knocks, and you for sure can feel it kick in right after the turbos spool up. Terry was wonderful in helping map and update the firmware.

Hope this is useful!

[sfonteno]

I had to bump it back to map3, I am using 50/50 and I had some knock going uphill today when I was in the throttle pretty hard. (Check engine came on lol.) Map 3 worked really well in higher torque, lower gears with no knock

[Terry @ BMS]

You should resize those images to 1200x900 or something, too hard to see as they take up more than my large monitor lol.

[sfonteno]

Just wanted to do an update four months later. System is running great, no issues.

Added a Whipple intercooler to the system and straightened out the exhaust, working on air intake next as the aftermarket solutions suck at the moment.

So far thru the summer the engine is handling heat very well, and I am not seeing any loss in performance or power. Drove a stock bronco in the heat for seven hours and it is night and day difference from the wmi and aftermarket setup I have installed. (Extreme loss in power in the stock bronco 2.7 with heat soak and working the engine hard.
Still running 91 octane fine with map five. Was not getting good results with map 5 until I put a better BOV in. Back pressure was killing the engine in third/fourth gear when the engine was under load.

So highly suggest anyone running the higher maps to get a better BOV over the factory one. Also double check the intake clamps after some use as the increased pressure and summer heat worked one of them loose causing loss in pressure and random times.

Hope this helps anyone reading this. And once again, great product Burger.

[Terry @ BMS]

Nice to hear! I plan to get our new Bronco on the dyno soon.

Want to help me test the new in mode based JB4 map switching?